Today, let’s do a bit of micro exploration, and walk down Lower Marsh!
Lower Marsh is a short street that runs parallel to Waterloo station, on the South Bank. And short as it is, there’s plenty to see and do. And shop. And eat. Oh, yes, more places to eat you can shake a stick at.
Fun fact: the name Lower Marsh is a reminder that the area which we now call the South Bank was marshlands until the mid 18th / early 19th century, when the area became industrialised and the railways came (Waterloo Station was built in 1848). (There is an upper Marsh, too, but it’s not very interesting.)
What I love about Lower Marsh is that it’s such a microcosm for London! There’s a mixture of solidly practical stores and fancy shops, plus a bustling market for street food, as well as restaurants with cuisines from most parts of the world (except the Indian sub-continent, strangely enough). Trendy bars rub shoulders with traditional English cafes. Pubs? Of course there are pubs. And you’ll find street art galore, and a charity shop, and a community centre in a fine redbrick Victorian building, and even a small park. I dare say if you know nothing about London, and the only London street you visit is Lower Marsh, it’ll give you a nice taste of what ordinary London is like.
At a glance...
Things to do on Lower Marsh
Visit the Leake Street graffiti tunnel
Leake Street tunnel, Leake St SE1 7NN | https://www.leakestreetarches.london/
If there’s one must-do thing in Lower marsh, it’s the Leake Street graffiti tunnel. It was founded by Banksy (and is also known as the Banksy Tunnel), and it is world famous for an ever changing display of street art. You can take a graffiti workshop, too! The Lower Marsh entrance is by the Sino Thai restaurant. (You emerge on the other side of Waterloo station.) You might catch a street artist at work, but even if you don’t, it’s truly an experience like no other.
Useful info: bring a face mask if you’re sensitive to paint fumes, fresh fumes do linger a bit.
See more photos of the Leake Street tunnel!
Catch a show at The Vaults or the Glitch
The Vaults, Leake St SE1 7NN | https://www.thevaults.london/
The Glitch, 134 Lower Marsh SE1 7AE | https://www.theglitch.london/
The Leake Street tunnel is run by The Vaults, a maze-like art space under the arches of Waterloo station; one of the most unique spaces in London for sure. (More unique than Wilton’s Music Hall? You decide!). Here’s their programme. They also run The Glitch, an LGBTQIA-friendly artsy café by day/ cocktail bar by night with a vibrant programme of cabaret and performance.
Watch some comedy at Vaulty Towers
Vaulty Towers, 34 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG | https://www.vaultytowers.london/
Meanwhile, across the road, the Vaulty Towers pub has a full programme of music, pub quizzes, comedy and life drawing salons, plus food and drink (and a brilliant name). And if none of that appeal, you can still enjoy its colourful façade and quirky window displays.
Learn to dance at the Waterloo Action Centre
Waterloo Action Centre, 14 Baylis Rd SE1 7AA | https://waterlooactioncentre.co.uk/
The Waterloo Action Centre is not, strictly speaking, on Lower Marsh, but hey, it’s close enough to be included. They have a varied program of community activities, mainly (but not exclusively) aimed at people over 60. Want to do some salsa dancing, life drawing, or sewing? The WAC is the place. Or you can just admire the building, built in 1893 and formerly a public library.
Get close to nature in Waterloo Millennium Green
Waterloo Millennium Green, Baylis Rd SE1 7AA | https://www.bost.org.uk/waterloo-millenium-green
If you want to enjoy some greenery, Waterloo Millennium Green is small but lovely. Again, technically, it’s not on Lower Marsh, but, again, it’s close enough for me!
Explore some very cool independent shops
Lower Marsh shops are a wonderfully eclectic collection. There’s a charity shop (Hospices of Hope) next to a fetish clothing shop (Honour Clothing), a hardware store (Tool Shop) alongside a Boots pharmacy, a branch of Ryman for all your practical stationery needs, plus two supermarkets and one (awesome) deli (more on which below). Also, there are a few non-food stalls on Lower Marsh Market, including a stall for used records.
Honour Clothing, 86 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://www.honourclothing.com
Hospices of Hope, 87 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://hospicesofhope.co.uk/our-shops/
Personally, my two favourite spots on Lower Marsh are Twice the Siren and Greensmiths Deli.
Twice the Siren is an independent gift shop full of beautiful things you never knew you wanted until you see them. It’s perfect for cool gifts to yourself or your loved ones. (Their website is obviously a work in progress, and definitely does not convey the range of what they offer in the shop.)
Next door is Greensmiths Deli & Grocery , the hidden gem of Lower Marsh. It’s much bigger inside than you’d expect from the outside, with several rooms on a few levels, including a café under a glass canopy. They sell a good range of products from local/ independent suppliers, including excellent sourdough breads and a fine collection of cheese. (Cheese and bread – who needs more?) There’s also a fresh fish counter and a butcher’s. So if you’re visiting, you can grab a sandwich or pastry from the fresh food counter, and if you’re a local, you can do your weekly shop (lucky you).
Twice The Siren, 28 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG | https://www.twicethesiren.co.uk/
Greensmiths Deli & Grocery, 27 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG | https://greensmiths.co.uk/
Visit Lower Marsh Market
And of course, there’s Lower Marsh Market, for some fine street food (although the quality does varies), second hand vinyl, and unique crafts. They organize events, too. But, really, it’s mostly about the food..
Which bring us neatly to …
Where to eat & drink on Lower Marsh
Hungry? Lower Marsh has food spots for every taste (probably).
First, there’s the aforementioned Lower Marsh market, with its huge choice of street foods. Greek, Pakistani , Nigerian, Indian, Cuban, Japanese, Filipino, Moroccan, Sicilian, Polish, and Thai are all on offer. And there are shared tables and chairs, for al fresco dining.
Lower Marsh market is open from 11am to 3pm, Monday to Friday, and it’s closed weekends.
Restaurant options are just as varied.
Cubana offers an extensive menu of Spanish and Latin American flavors, with several vegan and/ or gluten free options (and a clearly labelled menu, which is really helpful). The colorful mural on the side sets the tone!
Cubana Restaurant , 48 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://www.cubana.co.uk/
For Italian cuisine, there’s pizza at Pizza Pilgrims and traditional Italian cooking at La Barca restaurant.
La Barca, 80-81 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://labarca-ristorante.com/
Pizza Pilgrims Waterloo, 82 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://www.pizzapilgrims.co.uk/
If you prefer the flavours of South Asia and Japan, try Roti King (this is an offshoot of the celebrated Euston location), Gogo Pocha, The Sushi Co, the Sino Thai Restaurant , Wing Loon cage or Marie’s Café.
Roti King Waterloo, 97 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://www.rotiking.com/
Gogo Pocha, 30 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG | https://www.gogopocha.co.uk/
The Sushi Co, 89 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://thesushico.co.uk/
Sino Thai Restaurant, 127-128 Lower Marsh SE1 7AE, http://www.sinothai.co.uk/
Wing Loon Café, 130 Lower Marsh SE1 7AE | No website
Talking of Marie’s café… it’s a local institution! A traditional “greasy spoon” café (the greasy part is not to be taken literally, by the way) serving English breakfasts and Thai lunches in the first part of the day, and morphing into a fully-fledged Thai restaurant after 5pm.
Maries Café, 90 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://mariescafe.has.restaurant/
And if you’re craving an English breakfast but are too late for Marie’s, try Enough to feed an Elephant. They have a whole array of breakfasts: will you go for the mini, the mega,or the super? Or just the traditional? Or maybe try the Chunnel Bar and its Gentleman’s breakfast (fear not, they have plenty of traditional options too).
Enough to Feed an Elephant, 17a Lower Marsh SE1 7RJ | https://www.enoughtofeedanelephant.co.uk/
The Chunnel Bar, 133 Lower Marsh, SE1 7AE | No website
If you want soy milk in your coffee, and a comparatively healthier fare, try the Balance café. Sweet tooth? Cafe Peddlar belongs to the celebrated Little Bread pedlar artisan bakery, and serves delicious buttery, flaky pastries.
Balance, 42-43 Lower Marsh SE1 7AB | https://www.balancekitchen.co.uk/
Café Pedlar , 20 Lower Marsh SE1 7RJ | No website
There’s another local institution just a few steps away: the Scooter Café. It’s one of the quirkiest and coolest spot on Lower Marsh, and that’s saying something. Coffee shop by day, cocktail bar by night, a homage to all things retro Vespa, and well worth a visit.
Scootercaffe, 132 Lower Marsh SE1 7AE | https://www.facebook.com/scootercaffe
Add to that a Nigerian restaurant (Naija) and a Tunisian one (Tunisian Street Kitchen), and Lower Marsh Street is one place where you can basically eat (most of) the world!
Tunisian Street Kitchen / V&V Juice Bar, 12 Lower Marsh SE1 7RJ .| No website
Naija high street, 35 Lower Marsh SE1 7RG | No website, but they’re on Just Eat
And if you’re thinking … maaaaan, I just want a Philly cheese steak and a beer…you know what? You can have that, too. Just off Lower Marsh, on Leake Street (or should that be in Leake Street, seeing as it’s underneath the Arches, in the graffiti tunnel), there you’ll find Passyunk Avenue, modelled after a Philadelphia sports bar. Lots of wings, lots of cheesesteaks, lots of hot dogs.
Passyunk Avenue, 22 Leake St, SE1 7NN | https://passyunkavenue.com/
And there are a few more places, including a pub, a wine bar and…er…what do you call a place that serves up bubble tea? Happy exploring!
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Lower Marsh: where to go from there
If you want to explore a completely different London street, try Lord North Street in Westminster, on the other side of the Thames, just one stop away on the Jubilee line from Waterloo.
Lower Marsh: useful information
Lower Marsh on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/gkDyBwCESWcjMcaA7
How to get to Lower Marsh
The nearest public transport is Waterloo (Bakerloo line, Jubilee line, Northern line, Waterloo & City line, National Rail).
The easiest way to get to Lower Marsh from Waterloo station is the following:
- If you’re coming by train, use Exit 2 to get to Waterloo Road.
- If you’re coming by Tube, you’ll exit on Waterloo Road by default.
- Once you’re on Waterloo Road, with Waterloo station at your back, turn right, walk a couple of minutes, and turn right again. You’ll find yourself in a double carriageway (this is Bayliss Road).
- Stay on the right hand side and walk down. You’ll soon see the colourful cart that signal the start of Lower Marsh.
