Where do you go in London if you fancy a bagel? Why, you go to Brick Lane, heart of the Bengali community, of course.

The beigel shops of Brick Lane

Brick Lane might be famous for a plethora of curry houses, some of the best vintage shops in London and some fantastic street art, but it’s just as famous for a double whammy of 24 hours bagel – excuse me, beigels – spots: Beigel Bake and Beigel Shop, London institutions the both of them.

Beigel Bake is the one on the right. It’s the one white sign, the one that says Beigel Bake Brick Lane Bakery, which you have to admit as a nice ring to it.

Beigel Shop is the one on the left, with the yellow sign. Beigel Shop is the original one. (“Established in 1855” says the frontage; it’s only been called Beigel Shop since 2002, though).

A throwback to the Jewish East End

Both bakeries have been there for what feels like forever, a throwback to the time when the East End was the centre of Jewish life in Britain. They used to belong to two branches of the same family. Both are no frills kind of places, open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and they are known for long queues, Beigel Bake probably more so. In fact, Beigel Bake seems to have captured public consciousness in a way that Beigel Shop has not. Why? Who knows? Anyway, the queues move pretty briskly, so don’t let that put you off.

Bagels? Or Beigels?

But…but…hang on a minute…beigels? Isn’t that a bit of an unusual spelling? Or is a beigel different from a bagel? Simple answer: no and yes. A beigel and a bagel are pretty much the same thing; bagel is simply the Americanisation of “beigel”. Also, according to some sources, beigels (it’s pronounced “bye-gul”) are always made the old-fashioned way, that is first plunging the dough in boiling water before baking it, for that chewy crust and pillowy interior. Bagels made in a factory setting might skip the boiling step (and be steamed instead), and still be called bagels.

Well, both Beigel Shop and Beigel Bake make their beigels in-house, in a large open-plan kitchen at the back of the store. You can see them being boiled and baked as you wait.

Why Beigel Shop is my favourite

People often wonder whether there’s a rivalry between the two. Opinions differ as to that. More importantly, which one has the best filled bagels? Opinions differ as to that even more strongly. Me? I’m team Beigel Shop. I’m there for the yellow one. Why? Simple: because I’ve tried both several times, and they’re both delicious… but I do think Beigel Shop is best, because the staff make your beigel to order, so it’s really, really fresh.

Last time I was there, I had a smoked salmon and cream cheese, a classic combo if ever there was one. My bagel was so fresh that it was still warm from the oven and I could see the steam escape as it was prepared. The first few bites were heavenly; the following ones were utterly delicious. I could taste the pepper and the lemon juice, which took the whole thing to another level.

I’ve had the same combo from Beigel Bake. It was nice but… It’s pre-made, and if there was any lemon juice or pepper, I couldn’t taste it. Also, I feel that Beigel Shop is more generous with the filling. Having said that, there does seem to be a consensus that when it comes to the hot salt beef, Beigel Bake wins out. Just so you know.

The prices are very similar in both spots and pretty low still, apart from the aforementioned salt beef. (Despite that, or maybe because of that, it’s the most popular item on the menu, apparently).

So if you’ve worked out an appetite from shopping at Rough Trade and are craving some carbohydrate goodness…you know where to go!

Beigel Shop: practical information

Address: 155 Brick Ln, London E1 6SB

Opening Hours: 24 hours a day, 7 days a week

Website: https://www.thebeigelshop.com/menu

Nearest public transport: Shoreditch High Street (Overground)

Eat in? No

Take away? Yes

Outside seating? No

Toilets? No

And also: they sell rainbow beigels, which sure look pretty. You can get all sorts of fillings, including Nutella and Onion Bhaji. Well, not together. Or you can get the plain bagels. They also have all sort of yummy sweet threats. And last but not least, they sell bread.