Herne Hill, in South London, is just south and east of Brixton, and feels very different from it. The heart of Herne Hill is centered on either side of Herne Hill station, although the area around Denmark Hill might also be of interest to the urban explorer.

What’s Herne Hill like?

A bit of history… For a great part of the 19^th century, Herne Hill was a peaceful and bucolic area on the outskirts of London, a landscape dotted by grand manor houses with large gardens. By the late 19^th century, London’s explosive population growth and the arrival of the railways had transformed it into a densely built urban sprawl.

For all that, there’s still a village feel in Herne Hill. It’s a popular spot with families and white collar workers (and how property prices reflect that!). I’m a great believer in the idea that you can glean a lot about an area from looking at the kind of shops that serve the community. Herne Hill boasts several delicatessens, a weekly market that’s famous far beyond south London, and no less than 4 gift and lifestyle shops. An interesting contrast to nearby Croydon several tattoo parlours…

So, what is there to do in Herne Hill? Plenty, as you’ll see from the guide below!

EXPLORE/DO | EAT | SHOP | HOW TO GET TO HERNE HILL | WHERE NEXT?

EXPLORE/ DO

Brockwell Park

Let’s start with Brockwell Park, one of the most popular green spaces in Herne Hill. Brockwell Park was originally the grounds of Brockwell Hall, one of the grand estates that dotted the area in Victorian times.

Brockwell Park was opened in 1892 and landscaped by J.J. Sexby, who would also be responsible for Ruskin Park a few years later. Today, Brockwell Park retains its historic charm while offering many features old and new. The front of the park, nearest to Herne Hill station, is actually rather bland and unappealing. But walk towards the back of the park, and its beauty unfolds.

Its open vistas make Brockwell Park popular with runners and dog walkers, casual wanderers will enjoy the sweeping views over The City, and parents will appreciate the large children’s areas – it’s a park for everybody! In the summer, it’s home to the Lambeth Country Show, a free family festival, as well as several music festivals.

Things to do in Brockwell Park

Check out Brockwell Hall

The original Brockwell Hall was built in the early 19^th century for local son John Blades, a wealthy glass merchant. London County Council acquired the house and the surrounding lands in 1891 and the park opened to the public in the year after that.

Brockwell Hall is currently out of bounds, as it’s currently undergoing renovation. The £3.3 million project will open up the hall, including a new café and spaces for community exhibitions and events, while also improving accessibility. Sounds good…and I will update this entry once the project is complete!

Visit the walled garden

Oh, the walled garden! It’s one of the most gorgeous features within Brockwell Park. It was originally the kitchen garden for Brockwell Hall, and is now a peaceful retreat from urban life (well, if you don’t count the planes that fly overhead). It’s a lush, exuberant space with stone pathways lined by vibrant flowers, hedges, and plants that offer a feast of colour and textures. The numerous benches offer a place to sit and enjoy the surroundings.

Outside the garden, just to the right, you can spot one of Brockwell Park historical feature: the Temple. Not a “real” temple: originally, it was a folly, part of the original estate.

Visit the community greenhouses

Like the Walled Garden, the greenhouses were part of the original estate. Today, Brockwell Park Greenhouses are a registered charity and serve as an education space and a resource for the local community, with workshops and a packed list of events. They have volunteering opportunities, too.

Spot the model village

By the entrance to the walled garden stands an adorable model village – well, village is a bit too strong a word. Hamlet, maybe? It’s one of 3 made by retired engineer Edgar Wilson in 1943 and given to Brockwell Park in 1947. It used to be twice as big, but Lambeth Council decided to move some of the houses to nearby Vauxhall Park. Another village ended up in Melbourne. The story behind that one is that Edgar Wilson created the model village to express his gratitude for the food parcels sent from Melbourne to London during the war. So the models were shipped to Australia and the village still stands proud in Melbourne’s Fitzroy Gardens.

Admire the Clock Tower

Have you see Little Ben in Westminster? Well, Brockley Park has its own version, the Tritton Clock Tower. Local MP Ernest Tritton gifted the clock to the park in 1897 to celebrate Queen Victoria’s Diamond Jubilee. Over the years, it fell into disrepair, but was restored just under 10 years ago by the same company that originally built it. Cool, or what!?

Check out the wildlife in the pounds

Besides the walled garden, you’ll find three pounds teeming with wildlife: frogs and toads, seagulls, mallards and Canadian geese, and even swans. There’s a handy viewing platform by the largest pound.

Play tennis or basketball

The Tennis courts can be booked though Tennis in Lambeth (registration required). The Basketball courts are free and don’t require booking.

Ride your BMX bike

The BMX Track is also free and does not require booking. From 9am to 1pm on weekends, it’s reserved for the Brixton BMX club.

Ride the Brockwell Park Miniature Railway

On Sundays between April and October, you can also ride the most adorable miniature railway. It’s not an historical features (it was built in 2003), but did I mention adorable? Only £1 return, too. The Brockwell Park miniature railway site has all the information you might need.

Visit the Car Boot Sale

Between April and September, on the second Sunday of the month, the Friends of Brockwell park run a car boot sale in the Brockwell Lido car park. Treasures to rummage through, with the added bonus of homemade cakes – what a nice way to spend time on Sundays!

Brockwell Park Practical Information

If you’d like to find out more about, and maybe even get involved with Brockwell Park, have a look at the Friends of Brockwell Park website. In addition to the car boot sale mentioned above, they also organise walks and offer volunteering opportunities.

The Brockwell Park Community Partners act as an umbrella to the several community groups active within Brockwell Park, of which there are many. I mention several of them in this very article, but the full list is actually longer!

Brockwell Lido

And to the above list, you can add: go for a swim in Brockwell Lido, which deserves its own entry. Brockwell Lido is basically an open air swimming pool, but “lido” sounds so much more glamorous, doesn’t it! One of the many lidos that sprang all over London in the interwar period, it was built in 1937, and is now Grade II listed.

The 50m pool is unheated, but open during the colder months nevertheless. The outdoor sauna is only open during the winter.

The site also offers a gym and a full timetable of classes, from Body Pump to Pilates. The poolside café is a pizza restaurant called 400 Rabbits – see below in the EAT section.

It closed during the 1980s but local campaigners successfully fought to have it reopened, and it was renovated and extended in 2007.

Want to find out more? The Brockwell Lido users website includes a full history of the Lido as well current activities. There’s also a Brockley Swimmers club, and they too have a page on the Lido history (complete with a couple of vintage photographs that show how popular it was).

Ruskin Park

Brockwell Park is not the only green space in Herne Hill. To the north, towards Camberwell, there’s also Ruskin Park. It’s smaller than Brockwell Park, but no less interesting for that. In fact, I’ve written a whole post about things to do in Ruskin Park.

If you do head that way, don’t miss the cute water wheel by the station!

William Booth College

And if you’re going to explore the north of Herne Hill, and have an interest in architecture, spare a glance for William Booth College, which runs the training programmes for the Salvation Army.

Built in 1929, it looks vaguely like an Italian church designed by a Bauhaus architect, and towers over the neighbourhood. It was partly designed by Sir Gilbert Scott, architect of the Battersea Power station and London’s red phone boxes.

Carnegie Library

The Carnergie library is one of many libraries (over 20 in London alone, and thousands worldwide) that were financed by steel magnate and philanthropist Andre Carnergie. It’s a very pretty building, grade II listed, that opened in 1906. Check out the lovely art deco tiles in the entrance hall! The mosaic city seal on the floor pays tribute to the Metropolitan Borough of Lambeth, created in 1900, the predecessor of today’s London Borough of Lambeth, which includes Herne Hill.

Herne Hill Market (Sundays)

South London Makerspace

This one is for Londoners rather than London visitors. South London Makerspace is not a place that you can just walk in: you need to be a member. Still, it’s worth mentioning here because what a fabulous resource it is! And if you’re wondering what a makerspace is, it’s basically an open access community workshop. You can find out all about London Makespaces and find an updated list in this post.

Herne Hill velodrome

Address: 104 Burbage Rd SE24 9HE

Website: https://www.hernehillvelodrome.com/

Herne Hill velodrome on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/3mRJcTAitMevQqyN7

Cycling enthusiast? The Herne Hill velodrome has riding sessions and cycling races (free to watch, just turn up), as well as training sessions and lessons in how to ride a bike aimed at kids or adults.

EAT

Utter waffle

Address: 119 Dulwich Rd SE24 0NG

Website: https://utterwaffle.co.uk/

Utter Waffle on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/VpZPX31a3Zfbker98

Love that name! Great waffles with lots of inventive toppings, too, including vegan/ gluten-free options, and interesting sides. And desserts, don’t forget the desserts. Plus coffees, juices, wine and beer. The space is beautiful, too, and feels very serene, at least until it fill up (and this is a popular spot, especially for brunch).

The Florence

Address: 131 Dulwich Rd SE24 0NG

Website: https://www.florencehernehill.com/

The Florence on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/q3BWShZWC28qjGc69

Nice cozy pub with lovely Victorian fireplace, and a menu that ranges from pub favourites to gastronomic offerings. There’s a beer garden at the back, too.

The Commercial

Address: 212 Railton Rd SE24 0JT

Website: https://www.thecommercialhernehill.co.uk

The Commercial on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/H6d3ewKbYqNiqmQh7

Another pub with a beer garden, this one in a more conventionally British mould. It’s right in front of the station, so gets pretty busy with commuters on the way home at the end of the day, so choose your timing carefully…

The Half Moon

Address: 10 Half Moon Ln SE24 9HU

Website: https://www.halfmoonhernehill.co.uk/

The Half Moon on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/TeMRhc1nxRa42mxY7

The final pub on the list is also a hotel, and the rooms look amazing! The menu is extensive, and the perfect balance between pub favourites and world flavours. And the building is absolutely gorgeous!

Umana Yana

Address: 294 Croxted Rd SE24 9DA

Website: https://www.umanayana.co.uk/

Umana Yana on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/GBATNbv63CYqAnDR7

Amazing rotis and authentic Guyanese cooking, including vegan options. Family run place, and you can tell.

The Peachy Goat

Address: 16 Half Moon Ln SE24 9HU

Website: https://www.peachygoat.com/

The Peachy Goat on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/MSpc4m9p8CaeVFb99

The Peachy goat does Italian cuisine, at least nominally. No Spaguetti Carbonara here, though, in part because this is a vegan restaurant, and also because the accent here is on more sophisticated fare. There’s truffle oil and truffle butter, in the same dish. Also, burgers. Two of them. The dessert list, short as it it, is very tempting.

Minus 12° Craft Ice Cream

Address: Railway Station, Booking Hall Herne Hill SE24 0JW

Website: https://www.minus12.co.uk/

Minus 12° Craft Ice Cream on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JR5qVpXejVsyFE7E7

Adventurous flavours, generous portions, pretty reasonable prices (especially by London standards – I mean why oh why is ice cream so expensive in these parts???). Ice cream bingo! You’ll find them inside the train station, so you don’t even have to venture further out if you don’t want to… although you should, of course, after all, that’s what this whole guide is for.

Perks & White coffee

Address: Station Ticket Hall, Herne Hill, Railton Rd SE24 0JW

Website: https://www.perksandwhite.com/

Perks and White on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/kBEUt6Tu2PXnKSQy5

Community and environment minded independent coffee roasters with 2 spots in Herne Hill, one inside the ticket hall, and one on the platform. A good way to either start or end your exploration.

Blackbird Bakery

Address: 230 Railton Rd SE24 0JT

Website: https://www.blackbirdbakerylondon.co.uk/

Blackbird Bakery on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/6idaRprybseZQKyL9

The Blackbird Bakery has spots all over south London, and the Herne Hill branch is a lovely space with a vintage feel and a soothing atmosphere. They do nice toasties. They have a couple of outside tables, too.

Four Hundred Rabbits: Pizza Restaurant Herne Hill

Address: The Lido Cafe, Dulwich Rd SE24 0NG

Website: https://www.400rabbits.co.uk/hernehill

Four Hundred Rabbits on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/AjHHMxnEBZgjMjcb8

Pizza by the pool! How great does that sound!? Sourdough pizzas, at that. They’re not vegan, despite the name, but they do have vegan options.

SHOP

Morbleu

Address: 135 Dulwich Rd SE24 0NG

Website: https://www.bleufurniture.com/

Morbleu on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZgQhPqrnDsbXUocm7

Morbleu is packed with wonderful assortment of mid-century wares, from sofas to lamps to sculptures, plus pieces of African art sprinkled through. Lovely stuff to look at even if you can’t afford to buy.

Artemidorus

Address: 27B Half Moon Ln SE24 9JU

Website: no website

Artemidorus on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/NWekuRBLjvB1pdxR6

Small on space, big on treasures, that’s Artemidorus. The shop sells a mix of wares from UK makers and artists, many of them local, from painting to textiles to ceramics to handcrafted wooden children’s toys. In between those, you’ll also find some mid-century vintage pieces that blend seamlessly with the modern offerings. You could spend hours in there, small as the place is, and leave with a very empty wallet…

Lark Herne Hill

Address: 317 Railton Rd SE24 0JN

Website: https://www.larklondon.com/

Lark on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JFieAb323rRyk7xS6

Part of a family run empire, Lark sells pretty much all sort of beautiful stuff you might not need, but can’t help falling in love with, from clothes to cards.

Forget Me Not And Green

Address: 19 Norwood Rd SE24 9AA

Website: https://www.forgetmenotandgreen.com/

Forget Me Not And Green on Google Maps: https://www.forgetmenotandgreen.com/

Another nice gift shop, strong on indie makers, colourful stationery and skincare.

Jo’s House

Address: 299 Railton Rd SE24 0JN

Website: https://joshouse.co.uk/

Jo’s House on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/3AmuqieLvU8GCs5t9

Homewares from crystals to cushions to cards to candles. And plenty of other beautiful things that don’t start with “c”, as well, such as some beautiful pottery and textiles.

Wish

Address: 238 Railton Rd SE24 0JT

Website: none

Wish on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/N2gt6YRahLNDyJ3m6

That’s right, another gift shop full of cool, quirky and beautiful things, with a focus on prints and cards. And there’s a coffee bar, too.

Herne Hill Books

Address: 289 Railton Rd SE24 0LY

Website: https://www.claphambooks.com/herne-hill

Herne Hill Books on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/1DWCgtTrmPaHqZZK9

Is this the tiniest bookshop in London? It’s the sister bookshop to Clapham Books on Clapham Common, in any case. Strong on non-fiction, was my impression of it. They sell cards as well.

Oxfam Bookshop

Address: 9 Half Moon Ln SE24 9JU

Website: https://www.oxfam.org.uk/shops/oxfam-bookshop-herne-hill/

Oxfam Bookshop on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/7wGKvaXYGig8hCWm6

Oxfam bookshops pretty much never disappoint, and this one is no exception. Amongst other reasons to visit, there’s a wall of fiction, and a large vintage section, including orange Penguins at far cheaper prices than you’ll find on collectors book sites. Plenty of non-fiction, too. And, yes, cards, too.

Oxfam Charity Shop

Address: 20 Half Moon Ln SE24 9HU

Website: https://onlineshop.oxfam.org.uk/

Oxfam Charity Shop on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/efJR296Z1oXYPLH2A

And there’s a standard Oxfam shop as well as the bookshop. It’s a good all-rounder, with a bit of everything, including a selection of Oxfam fair trades products. Cards? You know, I’m not sure… I should have made a note…

Dugard & Daughters – Butcher & Larder

Address: 286 Arch, Milkwood Rd SE24 0EZ

Website: https://dugardanddaughters.com/

Dugard & Daughters on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/eJ86Z1TBGHxtNnLt7

One for the larder, half butcher and half deli. The veggies are organic and the cheese counter plentiful. They stock good you don’t see everywhere, too, such as pomegranate molasses and corn tortillas.

Jarr Market – Zero-waste shop

Address: 19 Half Moon Ln SE24 9JU

Website: https://www.jarrmarket.co.uk/

Jarr Market – Zero-waste shop on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/jiqn4KHkULoa26ucA

And for the rest of the larder, there’s Jarr Market. They sell pretty much anything that lends itself to being bought in bulk, including toiletries, and they do local deliveries. What’s not to like!

Brothers Green

Address: 4-6 Half Moon Lane Herne Hill SE24 9HU

Website: https://brothersgreenuk.com/

Brothers Green on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Kwe4Qsn29BpuQyJj6

A shop of two halves: vintage goodness galore on one side , and a wealth of house plants on the other side. The vintage side has both clothes and housewares; the plant store has handmade limited edition plant pots and run terrarium workshops. Lovely, lovely space.

Lowie

Address: 18 Half Moon Ln SE24 9HU

Website: https://www.ilovelowie.com/

Lowie on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/JnK3dW7d6n6XNKxp9

Nice women’s clothes shop. They sell their own range and also a selection of like-minded indie brands. The line has a delightful vintage feel (“heritage inspired” is their take on it), and they offer free repairs for life.

SHOP AND EAT

In addition to the weekly market and the food shops listed above, Herne Hill is blessed with several delis that double up as cafes.

Sesami

Address: 307 Railton Rd SE24 0JN

Website: no website

Sesami on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/TxWSQhGEATtpEKEz5

Lovely deli stocked with pantry staples, many of them organic and/ or vegan, plus a good choice of sandwiches and suchlike, plus coffee and other hot drinks. There’s seating outside at the front, and it’s very conveniently located one minute away from Herne Hill station.

The Sicilian Delicatessen

Address: 313 Railton Rd SE24 0JN

Website: https://thesicilian.com/

The Sicilian Delicatessen on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/NFU49NFT2Vhn112FA

Another lovely deli, this one with a Sicilian and South Italian flavour, and a cheerful blue and yellow colour scheme. More pantry staples (what you won’t find in Sesami you’ll probably find here, and vice versa), including their own tomato sauce and nut spreads. There’s seating at the back, and also outside. It’s practically next door to Sesami, therefore also one minute away from Herne Hill station .

Lulu’s

Address: 291 Railton Rd SE24 0JP

Website: https://lulus.london/

Lulu’s on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/Vfwz1ZCP2hPntkDX7

Beautiful breads and sandwiches, thoughtful selection of panty goods and wines, all very upscale. They morph into a wine bar with an inventive menu in the evenings.

Gail’s

Address: 214-216 Railton Rd SE24 0JT

Website: https://gails.com/pages/menu

Gail’s on Google Maps: https://maps.app.goo.gl/utBx6ewSQzTdCm1X8

Gail’s is pretty much a marker of gentrification, so it’s not really a surprise to see an outpost in Herne Hill… To their credit, they bake some of the best breads in London, and the rest of the range is superb too. The space is large and welcoming, with quite a few tables outside, perfect for summer days. They’re strong on breakfast, and lunch is not to be sneezed at either.

How to get to Herne Hill

• Direct trains to Herne Hill station from Victoria take about 10 minutes, and from St Pancras/Farringdon/ Blackfriars only a few minutes longer.

• For the northern part of Herne Hill, the nearest station is Denmark Hill (BR, Overground)

• North Dulwich station is also an option.From there, Bus 37 (towards Putney) goes to Herne Hill, or it’s about a 15 to 20 minutes walk down Half Moon Lane.

Where to go from here?

If you take the train to Elephant and Castle, in just over 10 minutes, you can stock up on herbal remedies at G Baldwin & Co and visit a great charity shop. Or grab a delicious burger at Roti Brothers in Crystal Palace – bus number 3 (direction Crystal Palace) will take you there. Or why not continue your exploration of South London by going to Croydon? There’s a direct train to east Croydon from North Dulwich.